|Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
By Lee Skidmore,
Last updated 20 June, 2003
Kangaroo Point is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is probably one of the most
user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes
galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya!
Early 1997. Large group of bumbling middle-aged abseilers fully decked out with helmets, gloves and thick static ropes.
One abseiler to another extremely fat abseiler after fatty makes a successful descent: "That's a very hard face for your first climb"
December 1998. Eight bumblies milling around base of Crap (15) with one bumbly in sand shoes on top rope.
One member of group: "Just reach up with your hand"
Climbing bumbly (gripped): "To WHAT?"
One member of group: "That thing there"
Climbing bumbly (pointing): "This?"
One member of group: "Yeah that's it!"
Climbing bumbly (incredulously): "But...but that's just a piece of rock!!"
Girl to boyfriend: "Look, seeing there isn't anyone around now, can you teach me how to belay?"
Kangaroo Point is located right on the Brisbane river in the suburb of (fittingly) Kangaroo Point. If you are in Brisbane, you really can't miss it. If you do, perhaps you should quit climbing. Ahh what the hell,
have a look at this map I swiped from the UQ climbing page. If you are carless, you can catch the train in and get off at Vulture Street station and walk for 5-10 mins.
WHEN TO GO
Winter is fine pretty much all the
time, but if you go during the day in summer, you will die. Seriously though, the rock is too hot to climb on, you'll set your hands on fire.
The only sane time to climb is early in the morning, or from late
afternoon into the evening. Lights mean you can climb until about 2-3am or so. Very
convenient. If you don't get there early though, top ropes will be set up on the best
Because almost every square metre of Kangaroo Point is utilised, the
routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top
roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of
the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the States) - check some of the pics on the
Kangaroo Point Climbing Gallery to see what it's like. The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are
rare, and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. There are probably over 250 routes graded from 3-26.
The most current guidebook (2003) is that by Darrin Carter, which is a
re-worked version of Neil Monteith's 1997 guide. Grab a copy from Height
Dynamics, or any of the Valley climbing stores.
Above: The guidebook cover. Darrin
Carter aiding Hanger Wall
If you're into bouldering, check out Neil Monteith's online Kangaroo Point Bouldering
|SOME RECOMMENDED ROUTES
| By Ignorance
|Bum Full Of Fists (A. Robbie pictured right)
|Chubba Chips Mods
| Fowl Deeds In The Chookhouse
to Kangaroo Point Climbing Gallery]