By Lee Skidmore, January 2000

Last updated 20 June, 2003

OVERHEARD

Early 1997. Large group of bumbling middle-aged abseilers fully decked out with helmets, gloves and thick static ropes.
One abseiler to another extremely fat abseiler after fatty makes a successful descent: "That's a very hard face for your first climb"

December 1998. Eight bumblies milling around base of Crap (15) with one bumbly in sand shoes on top rope.
One member of group: "Just reach up with your hand"
Climbing bumbly (gripped): "To WHAT?"
One member of group: "That thing there"
Climbing bumbly (pointing): "This?"
One member of group: "Yeah that's it!"
Climbing bumbly (incredulously): "But...but that's just a piece of rock!!"

December 1998.
Girl to boyfriend: "Look, seeing there isn't anyone around now, can you teach me how to belay?" 

ACCESS
Kangaroo Point is located right on the Brisbane river in the suburb of (fittingly) Kangaroo Point. If you are in Brisbane, you really can't miss it. If you do, perhaps you should quit climbing. Ahh what the hell, have a look at this map I swiped from the UQ climbing page. If you are carless, you can catch the train in and get off at Vulture Street station and walk for 5-10 mins.

WHEN TO GO

Winter is fine pretty much all the time, but if you go during the day in summer, you will die. Seriously though, the rock is too hot to climb on, you'll set your hands on fire. The only sane time to climb is early in the morning, or from late afternoon into the evening. Lights mean you can climb until about 2-3am or so. Very convenient. If you don't get there early though, top ropes will be set up on the best routes.

THE CLIMBING
Because almost every square metre of Kangaroo Point is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the States) - check some of the pics on the Kangaroo Point Climbing Gallery to see what it's like. The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare, and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy. There are probably over 250 routes graded from 3-26.

GUIDEBOOK
The most current guidebook (2003) is that by Darrin Carter, which is a re-worked version of Neil Monteith's 1997 guide. Grab a copy from Height Dynamics, or any of the Valley climbing stores.

Above: The guidebook cover. Darrin Carter aiding Hanger Wall